Nothing quite says summer in the southern states of the US like a crape myrtle tree in full bloom with its soft pink flower petals turned up toward the sky. Typically they grow so well and their blooms last so long that many people tend to them lovingly like they would a member of their family. That is except for when it comes time to prune them in the late fall.
Tragically most people are uninformed about the damages they cause when they cut these trees back to almost nothing. This generally leaves an unnatural brush looking stumps where there was a beautiful and majestic tree standing. Many times this will not only cause the growth to become stunted but can also lead to them growing into an unnatural sickly bush like shrub.
Just as there is a best time for pruning them there is also a best method to prune them. Often people can cut them back to severely believing this can help produce more flowering limbs the following year. In reality this typically creates delayed flowering, shorter blooming times and weaker branches. Doing this is often as unnecessary as it is harmful for most shrubbery.
Generally late winter or 2-3 months before spring is the best time to do the pruning. The best way to prune them it to try to enhance its natural form rather than trying to force it into an unnatural shape and form. In a correctly pruned tree, its branches grow up and out rather than up and branching to the center.
Look over the plant and follow the path its trunk and branches take. Try to focus on the inside rather than the outside. Any limbs you find that cross over other limbs in its interior should be cut out or back. You should also try removing limbs that grow in the incorrect directions or are twisted to some strange or unnatural form.
To remove a branch, follow it down to where it is joined to the trunk or a larger branch. Where the two parts are connected, you will notice an enlarged place known as the branch collar. Always cut a bare minimum of two or three inches past this point and never flush with the its trunk or branch. Over time this outer part will heal itself leaving little indication of the limb that was removed.
If you have never pruned your tree or if it has been a long time, you may have to remove many limbs. Do not let this scare you. Remember to always try to preserve the natural shape and not cut it down. Trunks can be removed close to the ground, but this often causes suckers to shoot up in the summer months.
Always cut them straight and smooth. If the branch cracks or it breaks before you finish cutting it treat it with something to protect the crape myrtle tree from bugs or diseases. Only take off a little bit at a time. It is easier to cut a little bit than waiting for them to grow back.
Tragically most people are uninformed about the damages they cause when they cut these trees back to almost nothing. This generally leaves an unnatural brush looking stumps where there was a beautiful and majestic tree standing. Many times this will not only cause the growth to become stunted but can also lead to them growing into an unnatural sickly bush like shrub.
Just as there is a best time for pruning them there is also a best method to prune them. Often people can cut them back to severely believing this can help produce more flowering limbs the following year. In reality this typically creates delayed flowering, shorter blooming times and weaker branches. Doing this is often as unnecessary as it is harmful for most shrubbery.
Generally late winter or 2-3 months before spring is the best time to do the pruning. The best way to prune them it to try to enhance its natural form rather than trying to force it into an unnatural shape and form. In a correctly pruned tree, its branches grow up and out rather than up and branching to the center.
Look over the plant and follow the path its trunk and branches take. Try to focus on the inside rather than the outside. Any limbs you find that cross over other limbs in its interior should be cut out or back. You should also try removing limbs that grow in the incorrect directions or are twisted to some strange or unnatural form.
To remove a branch, follow it down to where it is joined to the trunk or a larger branch. Where the two parts are connected, you will notice an enlarged place known as the branch collar. Always cut a bare minimum of two or three inches past this point and never flush with the its trunk or branch. Over time this outer part will heal itself leaving little indication of the limb that was removed.
If you have never pruned your tree or if it has been a long time, you may have to remove many limbs. Do not let this scare you. Remember to always try to preserve the natural shape and not cut it down. Trunks can be removed close to the ground, but this often causes suckers to shoot up in the summer months.
Always cut them straight and smooth. If the branch cracks or it breaks before you finish cutting it treat it with something to protect the crape myrtle tree from bugs or diseases. Only take off a little bit at a time. It is easier to cut a little bit than waiting for them to grow back.
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